Upload or enter content to preview the printable mesh.
Free online image to STL converter
Turn a logo, drawing, or photo (PNG, JPG, or WebP) into a printable STL — a raised relief for plaques and keepsakes, or a stencil cutout for logos and spray templates.
Grayscale heightmap extrusion — brightness becomes raised surface detail.
No credits · files stay on your device
One image, two very different things you can print
Your image can become two very different prints, so the first choice in any image to STL conversion is what you want to hold in your hand. Want your photo or your kid's drawing as a raised keepsake — an embossed plaque, coin face, stamp plate, or terrain tile? That is relief mode: bright areas of your picture rise above a base, dark areas stay low. Want your logo as a crisp cutout — a spray template, badge, silhouette, or bold sign? That is stencil mode: your image is compared against a threshold, and only the light or dark regions you keep become solid material with real thickness — clean open areas instead of gradual slopes.
Relief vs. stencil
Your bright areas rise into a raised surface — or a threshold keeps just your shape as solid material.
Resolution is physical
At 100 mm width sampled across 250 columns, one image column prints at:
That is already the edge of what a 0.4 mm nozzle can represent — keep raised details two to three pixels wide.
Everything runs in your browser
Your image is decoded, converted, previewed, and exported right here — nothing is uploaded.
How to convert an image to STL
Upload an image
Drop a PNG, JPG, or WebP with a clear subject.
Choose mode & detail
Relief for raised surfaces, stencil for cutouts — set width, thickness, and resolution.
Download STL
Export a print-ready file. Nothing is uploaded — it all runs locally.
Image to STL decision guide: relief, stencil, or AI 3D
3.1Which mode does your image need?Your image already tells you which mode will print well.
Your image already tells you which mode will print well. A photo — a face, a pet, a landscape — carries shadows, skin texture, and background clutter that are not real shapes, so it belongs in relief mode, where brightness honestly becomes height. A clean logo, black-and-white drawing, QR-like mark, badge outline, or stencil artwork belongs in stencil mode, where the threshold strips the background and keeps the shape you actually care about. Black line art on a white background usually needs invert turned on, or the background becomes the solid part. A transparent PNG works in your favor: transparent areas count as empty in stencil selection. A JPG deserves a quick cleanup first, because compression blocks can turn into tiny islands or bumps in your print.
3.2Will your small details survive printing?Your details only print if they are wider than your nozzle, so pick physical size and resolution together.
Your details only print if they are wider than your nozzle, so pick physical size and resolution together. Say you export a 100 mm wide STL sampled at 250 columns: each column of your image prints at about 0.4 mm — exactly the width of a typical FDM printer's 0.4 mm nozzle, so a one-pixel feature is already at the edge of what can print. Give raised details, narrow bridges, and stencil ribs two or three pixels of width and they will come out clean. Shrink the same export to 50 mm at the same 250 columns and each sampled pixel becomes about 0.2 mm — too fine for the nozzle even though the STL looks sharp on screen. On a resin printer you can hold smaller features, but thin stencil connections still need enough width to survive washing, curing, and handling.
3.3Dial in height, thickness, and thresholdYou are really setting three things: how tall your detail stands, how sturdy your part is, and what counts as shape.
You are really setting three things: how tall your detail stands, how sturdy your part is, and what counts as shape. Relief height first — a shallow 1-2 mm relief reads as a subtle plaque or label, while a taller relief makes icons, map ridges, and decorative textures easier to see. Base thickness (or stencil thickness) is what keeps your print from being a fragile paper sheet: it closes the STL into a solid volume you can actually handle. The stencil threshold decides what stays: lower values keep more of your image as solid material with fewer holes; higher values keep only the bright regions, which cleans up a messy background but can break thin strokes. Flip invert when your dark artwork should be the raised or retained part. After each change, glance at the live preview for disconnected pieces, hair-thin bridges, or speckled noise before you download.
3.4When you want a real object, not a raised imageYour relief or stencil is honest 2.
Your relief or stencil is honest 2.5D: every point in the STL comes straight from your image's pixel brightness or your threshold setting, built on a flat source plane — nothing is guessed. That is exactly right for a logo plate, stencil, embossing, terrain-like surface, or sign, and it stays fast, local, and predictable. But if you want the thing in your picture as a complete object — a character, miniature, product part, or organic model with a front, sides, volume, and print-oriented geometry — that is a different job called AI image-to-3D reconstruction. Use this image to STL converter for flat-to-raised work; use the AI image-to-3D generator when your model should exist as full 3D rather than a raised image.
Relief & stencil from a flat plane
- Every output point comes from pixel brightness or a threshold
- Fast, local, private — runs entirely in the browser
- Best for plaques, logo plates, stencils, embossing, signs
A complete object with volume
- Infers front, sides, and print-oriented geometry
- Characters, miniatures, product parts, organic models
- When it should exist as full 3D, not a raised image
Want true 3D instead of a relief or stencil?
When your picture should become a complete printable object — with a front, sides, and real volume — PrintReady3D's AI image-to-3D generator builds the whole model, not a flat extrusion.
Generate a true 3D modelImage to STL FAQ
Answers about relief mode, stencil mode, supported image formats, scale, and AI 3D generation.
Can I turn a photo into an STL?
Yes — your photo becomes a relief, where brightness turns into raised height, like an embossed plaque or coin face. If you want the subject of the photo as a complete 3D object instead, use the AI image-to-3D generator.
Image to STL vs AI image to 3D model: what is the difference?
Here your image becomes a relief or stencil built from its pixels on a flat plane. AI image to 3D instead tries to infer a complete 3D object with depth, sides, and printable volume.
Which image formats can I use?
PNG, JPG, JPEG, and WebP are supported. BMP and GIF first frames are accepted when the browser canvas decoder can read them.
Should I choose relief or stencil mode?
Choose relief for photos, maps, plaques, and grayscale surface detail. Choose stencil for logos, silhouettes, hard-edged icons, and cutout templates.
How should I set the stencil threshold?
Start around 128. Lower values keep more of your image as solid material; higher values keep only brighter regions. Use invert for dark artwork on a light background.
Are my images uploaded?
No. Your image is decoded, converted, previewed, and exported to STL locally in your browser — it never leaves your device.
Why did small details disappear in my print?
Your STL probably contains details smaller than your nozzle, resin pixel size, or material can hold. Increase model width, lower resolution, thicken the stencil, or simplify the source image.
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